Reinhold Reiling gold and diamond brooch

Reinhold Reiling (1922–1983) was a pioneering German goldsmith, jewelry designer, and educator who played a significant role in shaping modern art jewelry in postwar Germany

Born in Ersingen near Pforzheim, Germany, Reiling began his career with an apprenticeship as a steel engraver from 1936 to 1940. He pursued further studies at the Pforzheim School of Applied Arts and the Dresden School of Applied Arts, where he was a student of Theodor Wende. His education laid the groundwork for his innovative approach to jewelry design

Reiling emerged as a leading figure in the modernist jewelry movement during the 1950s and 1960s. His work was characterized by sculptural forms, textured surfaces, and unconventional combinations of materials, such as gold with pearls, lapis lazuli, or tourmaline. He was among the first postwar German goldsmiths to break away from traditional decorative styles, creating what was then called "object jewelry"—pieces that emphasized artistic expression over ornamentation. His designs often featured geometric and organic forms, reflecting a modernist aesthetic.

In 1954, Reiling began teaching at the Staatliche Kunst- und Werkschule Pforzheim (now Pforzheim University of Design), where he became a professor of jewelry design in 1969. His pedagogical approach and innovative designs influenced a generation of jewelry artists, including notable students such as Peter de Wit, Onno Boekhoudt, and Charon Kransen .I

Reiling's work was exhibited internationally, including at the Milan Triennial in 1964 and Expo 67 in Montreal. He received several prestigious awards, such as the Bavarian State Prize and the State Prize of Baden-Württemberg in 1964.His pieces are held in major public collections, including the Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim, the Museum of Applied Arts in Vienna, and the Goldsmiths’ Hall in London .

Reiling passed away in 1983 in Cranz, Germany. His legacy endures through his influential contributions to modern jewelry design and his impact as an educator.

For a visual exploration of Reiling's work, you can view his pieces in the collection of the Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim on Google Arts & Culture